If this week's catastrophe called Katrina had happened to any other American city, I would be just as transfixed by the suffering, the devastation and the sorry federal response. But because one of its victims is dear New Orleans, I'm experiencing a fear and a grieving particular to that city's unique magic and its musical heritage. The half-submerged fair grounds and destroyed paddock leave me wondering if I'll ever see another Jazz Fest. Certainly the charming tumble-down neighborhoods surrounding the grounds will never be the same. The route we used to walk up Elysian Fields from the Quarter is a two-mile canal. I vividly recall sizing up the artfully decayed mansions and the massive trees there and thinking how fragile and ephemeral it all was. I was always conscious when I was in New Orleans that I might be seeing it for the last time, and now likely that sobering daydream has come true.
I live in a place called, aptly, Music City, but Nashville's title hinges more on its industrial infrastructure than its genes. Some talented artists did indeed grow up here, but the vast majority migrated here from elsewhere. By contrast, New Orleans is a musical net exporter. It would be enough to recognize that Louis Armstrong grew up there, nurtured in the city's musical bosom. But it goes so much deeper. Jelly Roll Morton, Mahalia Jackson, Professor Longhair, Dr. John, Sidney Bechet, the Marsalis clan, Alvin Batiste, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Pete Fountain, and dozens more. Born in New Orleans, where music flows like mother's milk, where it's in the walls and the streets and the clouds and the rain like no other place on earth. It's where American music's holiest marriage– Western classical sophistication and Afro-Caribbean syncopation -- took place. It's where the unadulterated blues, born of rank slave suffering became assimilated and decorated, flowering into jazz and blues music that articulates the human condition more concisely and to wider comprehension than any art form I have ever experienced.
I catalog the handful of places I've been able to experience and try to determine if they're safe. Word is Preservation Hall has survived the flood, though no one knows about looters, and the threat of fire remains high throughout the city. The Rock & Bowl, where I learned to zydeco to the pulsing sex-appeal of Rosie Ledet and the rustic joie-de-vivre of the late Boozoo Chavis, is in a flood zone. Tipitina's seems to be dry. But countless clubs – the small ones where careers develop and outsized epiphanies take place – are surely destroyed. And what of the record collections? The archives? The photos and the posters? How ravaged is the city's shared heritage? We won't know for a long time.
We know that Fats Domino got out by boat after enduring the flood at home, but his home, and thus his personal effects, were inundated. Most of the Neville family lost their homes. So did Allen Toussaint, quoted in a good piece in <a href="http://www.forbes.com/digitalentertainment/2005/09/02/katrina-hurricane-jazz-cx_tvr_0902jazz.html">Forbes</a> that details the city's musical woes.
I'll have more later. For now, I'm just praying for all the little-known musicians who make their living in New Orleans. I'm agonizing to see the very population that produces new generations of musicians and musical spirit – the poor blacks of the city – suffer so needlessly and so endlessly. I do believe the city has too much mojo for it to be ever extinguished, but the next time I feel the transporting beats that one can only hear in New Orleans, it will be in a changed and less joyous place.

